While the Deep Cove Chalet may not be the destination for
trendy Victoria diners, this extremely out of the way restaurant is not
without appeal for foodies that don't mind a drive.
More or less lost in the 1970s, the Deep Cove Chalet is a
sophisticated restaurant where your grandma would feel very comfortable.
Similarly, the age of health-consciousness never set foot in the door of
this restaurant. What the Chalet lacks in modern decor, it compensates
with some of the richest food I've ever had. The menu is one of the most
indulgent I've ever seen - every animal under the sun is represented,
most of which are prepared with a generous dose of butter and cream. If
you ever wanted to feel what it was like to live in a time when heavy
protein and fat consumption was A-OK, this is your place. On the other
hand, this lengthy and elaborate menu clearly drives up the prices of
any given dish. In order to keep such an extensive larder of perishable
goods, I suspect that 5% of the food price is to recoup the cost of
chucking out unused quails and rabbits at the end of the night.
Our server on this night, did a lovely job of escorting us through
the evening - in character; black waiter's vest and bow tie, handle-bar
mustache and a French accent. He was perfectly professional and well
versed in his trade.
The wine list was certainly above average. Heavy on the French
Bordeaux, with an ample selection of wine in the $150-300 range, there was
certainly something for everyone and was designed to match the weight of
the menu. That said, I would plan to spend $60-80 per bottle. I was
particularly pleased to see (and order) a Venturi-Schulze sparkling rose -
it was brilliant and festive. Also of note is the adjacent Chalet
Vineyard, which is well-represented on the wine list.
Fair enough, any restaurant that serves me foie gras gets acclaim and
I was not surprised to see and be served one of the richest foie gras
terrines I've ever had. I wouldn't go to the Deep Cove Chalet with any
but the piggiest diners, it would be wasted on them and in fact the menu
(facetiously I hope) even states that this is not a soup and salad
restaurant and they don't split main courses. Order a big red wine and
prepare yourself for the onslaught of animal fat. The Deep Cove Chalet
is a special-occasion restaurant; for one because it's so far away and
secondly because you'd get heart disease eating there with any
frequency.
Reviewed: December 8 2005
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