Bistro 28
2583 Cadboro Bay Road
tel: (250) 598-2828

Bistro 28 is a pleasant surprise. There's room for refinement, but the concept is strong. I was disappointed that I didn't know more about the menu and concept upon arrival. The media and promotions have been light. Occupying the former Wren space in Oak Bay, I knew there had been some physical changes, but wasn't sure how that had been translated to the general approach.
The physical space is much, much better. If nothing else, the air circulation is better. Similarly, there is more seating - less formal and good for the bottom line. The decor is thoughtful and well executed. The menu is short and sweet, if not well communicated. The wine list if above average and credited to the neighbours, BCWineGuys.
Short, careful menus are the goal of all well-meaning, ego-moderated cooks - it just works better for everyone. Bistro 28 has one of those menus, with a nice blend of practical, innovative and familiar. The service was uneven, but well within the range of acceptable. Our server was on the awkward side, but friendly and sincere. The other server, who seated and took our cocktail order, was much stronger and given a few weeks, the two of them very well may equalise each other.
We ordered the foie gras torchon, the 'dry ribs,' the steak frites and the chicken legs. The prices feel like value, although the portions are unpredictable and needed more explanation from the server. The first courses seemed like super value. My torchon was one of the better I've had lately. The accompanying aspic was awesome. My love of aspic is weird, but nevertheless - it was delicate, beautifully presented and full flavoured. Patty's dry ribs; pork belly crispy fried with salt and lemon, were fun and cool; if not a little heavy for anything but beer drinking. Patty's main course, chicken legs were similarly, super cool. Three braised chicken legs, that then received the treatment of hot wings. Fried and tossed in a housemade and nicely balanced chili sauce. Accompanied by a celery an carrot ribbon salad. What a fun dish. Patty and I did however, both agree, that a heavier and creamier dressing on the salad would have been a better homage to hot wings and more balanced. My steak frites was small, but after I ate it, I was onboard with the portion. A 4 oz flat iron (shoulder clod) steak, it was nicely cooked. I could have eaten more, but I would have felt gross later. The fries were super hot and crispy with a tasty red pepper coulis.
The price tag wasn't 'cheap,' but it was perfectly acceptable - more importantly I left feeling comfortable and that means I'll be back more often than a 'special occasion' restaurant would attract me. A strong start...
July 2009